Wednesday evening, Mr. Pai took Nat and I in his tuk tuk to The Angkor Temples with thousands of others to watch the sunset over Phnom Bakheng. The path to sunset starts at a dusty clay set of steps and proceeds with a short hike up a mountain to the gorgeous temple. Phnom Bakheng was built during the late 9th- early 10th century C.E. And was the first major temple built in the area ( thanks SR visitors guide). At the base of the temple, a steep wooden staircase has been erected to allow visitors to climb to the top to see the sunset over a mountain. The temple has intricate carvings on all surfaces and carvings of Buddha and Aspara dancers throughout. The evening was cloudy, but the sun peaked through the clouds twice, just in time to watch it set. It was stunning! This was only a precursor of what was to come!
Upon our return to town, we scoped out the Night Market. Thankfully, I exercised some self-control and saved my wallet some $$$! We ate curry at a restaurant on Pub Street (the place to be for all things drinking and eating) and ended up in bed at 9:30 in preparation for our day at the temples!
Alarm on Thursday, 4:30 am to meet Mr. Pai by 5:10 in front of the hotel. By 5:30 we were in front of Angkor Wat in the pitch black beginning our trek, flashlight in hand, walking toward it. It's hard to describe the feeling of watching the sun slowly rise over this awe inspiring temple. The day was cloudy overall, but the sky slowly lightened over the next hour revealing the magnificent structure in front of us. Thousands of visitors were standing with us by the lake on the left side of the temple inside of its gate. Watching the sunrise here was a once in a lifetime experience. Angkor means "capital city" or "holy city". Angkor Wat was built during the 12th century and serves as the centerpiece to visitors of the temples. We spent the next couple of hours exploring Angkor Wat. We commented on how we have never had such access to explore and walk around and climb on a structure like we were given at the Angkor temples. I ended my morning at Angkor Wat lying on the grass in front of it, taking in the view and the moment.
After breakfast, we headed to Angkor Thom, the ancient city, who's gate is lined with Buddhas and entryway is a stone arch with a face emerging from the top on both sides. Bayon was next and is impressive! Stone faces are present all over the temple, on its 37 standing towers. Bayon was one of my favorites. Our next 1-2 hours were accidental as we got lost along the way, but we ended up seeing Baphoun, the Royal Palace area, and Phimeanakas. Baphoun, recently restored, is the large temple mountain. Full disclosure, I was terrified walking up and down the steepest steps I've ever experienced that lead you to the top of Baphoun. The view from the top was worth the hike, but the nausea on the way down was rough! When we got back on the path, we explored the Terrace of Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King. The Figures in the store were beautiful!
For lunch, we enjoyed more Khmer food and the headed to Ta Prohm, where massive fig and silk-cotton trees grow out of the temple. The visual is gorgeous and impressive...also one of my favorites! Along the way, Mr. Pai stopped at the smaller temples of Thommanom, Chau Say Thevoda, and Banteay Kdei. The day was long and tiring, but one of the most beautiful I have ever experienced. These temples are impressive! I am grateful to have spent a day exploring them.
We ended this wonderful day with a tuk tuk drive around the local Siem Reap carnival area followed by a late afternoon rest by the pool. It took a few days for the magnitude of the temple day to sink in!
Tuesday, February 24, 2015
Thursday, February 19, 2015
Hello Lady
Another day, another 6am wake up! We have now accomplished many things before 9 am since arriving in Cambodia. The hotel breakfast was nice. I am channeling my inner Gaston as I have eaten 2357754 eggs since arriving! It's a great thing that I like eggs. We then headed out to explore the Old Market which is full of food and nic-nacs. Over the course of the day, I spent way too much money but I hope it is helpful to the people I purchased from. As I walked past any booth and even glimpsed at the merchandise out of the corner of my eye, a very polite, "hello lady" could be heard often accompanied by a comment on how they had a good deal for me or a deal for the new year. And let me just say, I am not a bargainer. Really I would just call myself a sucker for any price offered! Perks to them!
Up next, a Khmer cooking class. A guide from a local restaurant took us into the Old Market and pointed out local fruits and veggies. We purchased a few things for the class and went back to work. In the class we each prepared an appetizer and entree of our choosing. The amazing part was that each person chose their own and we did not all have to cook the same thing. The options were endless and let's be honest, my indecisiveness was not a strength in this endeavor! I opted for a mango salad and chicken loc lac. Over the next 2 hours Nat and I befriended a retired Canadian couple, a French college student, and 2 twenty something Chinese women on holiday celebrating the Chinese New Year! They were all really fun and interesting people. We also chopped and stirred and pan fried the food. The dishes were amazing. Compliments to the chef;)For dessert we made a collective dish of mango sticky rice. Yum!
Food coma time! This led is to a stop by the pool to relax before heading to the breathtaking temples to watch the sunset. More on the Temples next...
Up next, a Khmer cooking class. A guide from a local restaurant took us into the Old Market and pointed out local fruits and veggies. We purchased a few things for the class and went back to work. In the class we each prepared an appetizer and entree of our choosing. The amazing part was that each person chose their own and we did not all have to cook the same thing. The options were endless and let's be honest, my indecisiveness was not a strength in this endeavor! I opted for a mango salad and chicken loc lac. Over the next 2 hours Nat and I befriended a retired Canadian couple, a French college student, and 2 twenty something Chinese women on holiday celebrating the Chinese New Year! They were all really fun and interesting people. We also chopped and stirred and pan fried the food. The dishes were amazing. Compliments to the chef;)For dessert we made a collective dish of mango sticky rice. Yum!
Food coma time! This led is to a stop by the pool to relax before heading to the breathtaking temples to watch the sunset. More on the Temples next...
The Road to Siem Reap
My first Tuesday started like the others have so for, at 6am (I'm sensing a pattern here...). Nat and I trekked out to grab breakfast and coffee before our 8 hour bus to Siem Reap. The trip should take about 6 hours, but you know, plan for 8. We scoped out a breakfast spot the night before that opened at 6am and then remained closed without a light on or movement at 6:20. Plan B- find any open place, grab and go (unlikely in PP). Mission accomplished with no time to spare! Our bus was scheduled to leave at 7:45am and we pulled out around 8:15. We opted for the deluxe option (think megabus with water, a snack, and a TV at the front playing Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles for all to hear). It was quite nice! The road to Siem Reap is exciting and full of buses, cars, tuk tuks, motorbikes, and bicycles. The reason the trip takes a while is that the road is half paved and half dirt. Adventures on a bumpy road!
Upon our arrival, we found the hotel lovely. It's an open air space with rooms scattered around and 2 gorgeous pools that we immediately took advantage of! (I can't seem to get the photos uploaded via phone... Coming soon) The feel of Siem Reap is very different than PP. It's much quieter and feels more relaxed in many ways. For dinner we attended an Aspara Dance show while chowing down on a huge buffet dinner with a ton of traditional Khmer dishes. Amazing food and show. The dancing is beautiful!
I think I'm going to love this town!
xo,
Cole
Upon our arrival, we found the hotel lovely. It's an open air space with rooms scattered around and 2 gorgeous pools that we immediately took advantage of! (I can't seem to get the photos uploaded via phone... Coming soon) The feel of Siem Reap is very different than PP. It's much quieter and feels more relaxed in many ways. For dinner we attended an Aspara Dance show while chowing down on a huge buffet dinner with a ton of traditional Khmer dishes. Amazing food and show. The dancing is beautiful!
I think I'm going to love this town!
xo,
Cole
Wednesday, February 18, 2015
Perspective
Day 2 in PP started at 6am due to lack of sleep. I was so tired but my mind would not stop which means little to no sleep. Nat even woke up super early, so we were off in search of breakfast and water. Sadly, Amanda had to work and didn't join us on our adventure. We hired a really nice tuk tuk driver who never stopped smiling for the day. First stop, Russian market. To get there, our tuk tuk crossed the median and drove into oncoming traffic to make a left turn... It was terrifyingly thrilling. If you have ever been to a market in a developing country, then you know what it was like. Hundreds of booths selling clothing, trinkets, shoes, electronics, produce, and meat. The eels were wiggling in the trays and the pig head was staring right at us (maybe even winking;)).
Stop 2 was Toul Sleng Genocide Museum where over 12,000 Cambodians were forced into prison, interrogated, and killed over 4 years during the Khmer Rouge. The prison was formerly a school that was overtaken by Pol Pot and his men as they kicked everyone out of the city. It's really hard to believe that the prison was kept secret for so long until Independence Day in January 1979. It was a very sad and moving place to be. From there we had a quick lunch that consisted of 2 eggs with 3 pieces of coconut flavored toast even though Nat ordered something entirely different! From there our driver took us out to the Killing Fields. The tour is self guided with a head set that walks you along and provides you with history and perspectives from Khmer people impacted by the war. I don't think there is a single family in the country who was not impacted by the terror inflicted by the Khmer rouge. I really liked that each visitor was able to walk through the experience on his or her own in silence.. It was one of the saddest things I've ever seen. Tens of thousands of people were carted out to the fields and brutally murdered; men, women, and children. Remanents of bone and clothing are still found today during the rainy season when the water washes layers of dirt away. The site now honors the lives of all of the people killed in a very powerful and moving way. The people of Cambodia are a very resilient group. What happened should never be forgotten and should never happen again anywhere in the world.
As we headed back to the city, we spent most of our ride quietly reflecting on the experience; occasionally asking questions about things we saw or heard. I also thought about the living conditions of the people we passed along the way out to the fields. Houses that doubled as store fronts made of medal, often on wooden stilts with very little inside. Poverty is very high throughout the country and I really saw that as we drove through town. A day like today really puts life into perspective. It makes me thankful for what I have and for the ability to help others.
I really gained perspective on how fortunate I am when we returned to Amanda's apartment for a short rest and then went for a massage before dinner. For dinner I tried the Khmer specialty of Beff Loc Lac which was delicious.
As I fell asleep, I took a minute to reflect on the day, be thankful for what I have, and acknowledge my new found perspective on life thanks to Cambodia.
Stop 2 was Toul Sleng Genocide Museum where over 12,000 Cambodians were forced into prison, interrogated, and killed over 4 years during the Khmer Rouge. The prison was formerly a school that was overtaken by Pol Pot and his men as they kicked everyone out of the city. It's really hard to believe that the prison was kept secret for so long until Independence Day in January 1979. It was a very sad and moving place to be. From there we had a quick lunch that consisted of 2 eggs with 3 pieces of coconut flavored toast even though Nat ordered something entirely different! From there our driver took us out to the Killing Fields. The tour is self guided with a head set that walks you along and provides you with history and perspectives from Khmer people impacted by the war. I don't think there is a single family in the country who was not impacted by the terror inflicted by the Khmer rouge. I really liked that each visitor was able to walk through the experience on his or her own in silence.. It was one of the saddest things I've ever seen. Tens of thousands of people were carted out to the fields and brutally murdered; men, women, and children. Remanents of bone and clothing are still found today during the rainy season when the water washes layers of dirt away. The site now honors the lives of all of the people killed in a very powerful and moving way. The people of Cambodia are a very resilient group. What happened should never be forgotten and should never happen again anywhere in the world.
As we headed back to the city, we spent most of our ride quietly reflecting on the experience; occasionally asking questions about things we saw or heard. I also thought about the living conditions of the people we passed along the way out to the fields. Houses that doubled as store fronts made of medal, often on wooden stilts with very little inside. Poverty is very high throughout the country and I really saw that as we drove through town. A day like today really puts life into perspective. It makes me thankful for what I have and for the ability to help others.
I really gained perspective on how fortunate I am when we returned to Amanda's apartment for a short rest and then went for a massage before dinner. For dinner I tried the Khmer specialty of Beff Loc Lac which was delicious.
As I fell asleep, I took a minute to reflect on the day, be thankful for what I have, and acknowledge my new found perspective on life thanks to Cambodia.
Sunday, February 15, 2015
The King is a Bachelor
I arrived late last night and Mands and Nat picked me up at the airpor in a tuk tuk, our primary mode of transportation in Phnom Penh! I was SOOO tired. Today our adventure began with a stop at the Java Cafe, an expat hangout with great food... I had a Greek omelette with home fries. Felt like home! No worries we ate Cambodian food for dinner. Fish Amok is a delicious follow up to a sunset cruise on the Mekong river. Prior to the cruise we stopped the independence monument, took Khmer wedding photos (an experience to never forget), and took a tour of the Royal Palace and Siver Pagoda in newly purchaed fisherman pants. The weather is warm, humid, and refreshing after leaving DC at 19 degrees. Apparently it's cold here according to the locals. I think I need to move to a climate like this!
Things I learned today;
1. When in a developing country, you need to let go of some of your germaphobia (especially when a Cambodian woman is frantically trying to make you beautiful for your fake wedding photos).
2. The fake eyelashes must stay at the photo shoot.
3. The Cambodian King is a bachelor because he was a ballet dancer in Paris for 20 years before becoming King.
4. Crossing the street in PP is crazy!
5. Traffic laws don't really seem to exist. Every tuk tuk ride is an adventure!
Looking forward to Day 2.
xoxo,
Cole
Things I learned today;
1. When in a developing country, you need to let go of some of your germaphobia (especially when a Cambodian woman is frantically trying to make you beautiful for your fake wedding photos).
2. The fake eyelashes must stay at the photo shoot.
3. The Cambodian King is a bachelor because he was a ballet dancer in Paris for 20 years before becoming King.
4. Crossing the street in PP is crazy!
5. Traffic laws don't really seem to exist. Every tuk tuk ride is an adventure!
Looking forward to Day 2.
xoxo,
Cole
Wednesday, February 11, 2015
SE Asia, here I come!
It's time for another adventure! I'm hoping to post a few times over the next couple of weeks as I explore Cambodia and Vietnam with some lovely friends. I am so excited! I hope you join me along the way. Any tips are welcome :)
xo,
Cole
xo,
Cole
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Maybe Next Year...
Saying goodbye was hard to do. My official last day on the farm was full of activity which made leaving somewhat easier. Sibia and the boys helped us pack and bid us a sweet farewell. We did after all need to get moving since we had a bus to catch to Guatemala the next morning.
I am still here, though you would not know from my long blogging absence. I will be in Central America through 5 de mayo and then home at last. I am in the last leg of my journey around an amazing set of countries; torn between wanting to stay longer and readiness to return home to "normal" life and a schedule. I know I am lucky to have/make the opportunities to travel to other countries but there is something about home that is so comforting. I tend to be an antsy person, two years of anything and its time to change it up. So I am relieved that I am beginning to value home more than in the past. Rather than constantly wanting to be on the move, I also want to spend time at home with my family and friends. Long periods of travel away from home are great ways to put life into perspective, reflect on what you want in the future, and really appreciate aspects of home. A few thoughts of aspects of home that I miss among others:
1. Weekly chats with my sister and family members
2. The ability to walk out of my house and know where to purchase anything I need
3. The weekly outings with my best friends
4. Our daily/weekly/monthly chats besties... just being able to pick up the phone and use it!
5. The hustle and bustle of DC (yes I miss it strangely)
6. Knowing where my next meal is coming from
I am also amazed at how adaptable I have become. Santa Clara felt like home (as expected) since I spent 9 weeks there, but in the past 2 weeks I have traveled between 5 cities and they each have felt home-like in their own ways. Here is a quick blurb from each:
Antigua, Guatemala was peaceful and beautiful. I spent a lot of time there walking around and drinking coffee from all the fabulous coffee shops in the mornings... leading to a few stomach aches and slight twitching but oh so worth it. By afternoon Kayla, Jerry and I would wander around amidst the thousands of people there for Semana Santa. I am so glad that I have been able to experience Semana Santa in Latin America. The faith and passion of the people here are strong and unlike anything I have ever experienced before. One minor bump in my Guatemala experience was on Palm Sunday. During the procession, someone in the crowd where we stood cut my purse and stole my camera. Sad but not the end of the world. I am a crazy picture lady (like you Bee, you would be proud) but I also upload them regularly so only 40 pics at most were lost. I sulked for a few minutes quietly, thought of how lucky I was to still have my passport and credit card, drank a glass of wine with Kayla and Jerry, compliments of Jerry. (It was noon-ish but hey 5:00 somewhere), and walked to a camera store where I bought another camera. Problem solved. The next day we went Panajachel and Lake Atitlan (must sees in Guate) where I took lots of pics and soaked in the beauty and water on the speed boat we took with two 14 year olds as navigators.
San Salvador again. This place never gets old. Among all the places we have visited, El Salvador feels most like home. I plan to return in the future. I do have friends there which makes it so much easier! Kayla, Jerry and I returned to Leonel's house for 1 night before we sent Jerry back to the US (no worries he is on his way back shortly!). Kayla and I then moved over to the girls' house as their entire family headed to Antigua for the end of Semana Santa. We ended are visit with them in true fashion...a papusa and hot chocolate dinner! I love that family! The rest of the week was spent working on our final deliverables for our practicum here and wandering around to find dinner. On Good Friday night we were at a papuseria when a procession came past us full of praying and singing with 3 ice-cream eating cops pulling the the rear. It was so cute!
Saturday morning we hopped a bus at 5am to Managua, Nicaragua. We spent 3 nights in Managua... 2 nights too many I think. The hostel we stayed in was great, but this was the first city that I was not as comfortable in, especially walking around. The men there made catcalls and kissy noises and a bolo (drunkard) walked between the 2 streets where the hostel houses were and grabbed me one day. "No Sir" All was fine and like I said I loved the hostel. It had a great vibe, people were friendly, we went swimming, and basically just hung out watching movies and listening to music. I did see the new Adam Sandler movie "Just go with It" which is really cute and "Love and other Drugs". Kayla and I continued on our workout kick and did Insanity in front of an audience of the workers who just did not want to join in! Overall, the chillness was great and needed I think. Lesson learned: pass through Managua...Granada is the place to be!
Granada, Nicaragua the place to be! I know I already said it but I love it there! The hostel where we stayed was AMAZING! It was owned by an Irish man who was funny and helpful. I love encountering the Irish in my travels! Again I went swimming in the pool which was in the center of the small structure with an open sky above... unreal! Pictures coming soon! Kayla and I went to the Laguna del Apoyo outside of the city and swam in the Laguna! It was so beautiful!!! Our one day in Granada was well spent, understated, and perfect. Oh I should mention that I thought we would not make it to San Jose today for a minute! We went to buy bus tickets when we first arrived in Granada but the office was closed, SO we had lunch which consisted of PAPUSAS!!! Papusas are unheard of in Nica so we were happy! After lunch we trekked around the city to the 4 major bus stations trying to find room on the bus today. Luckily, at our last stop we were told 2 people cancelled on the 6am bus so we HAD TICKETS!!!
This all leads to now. We are at our homey hostel in San Jose using the wi-fi and passing the time. Getting to San Jose today was so important because tomorrow we must retrieve Jerry (the aforementioned and present mejor amigo de Kayla) and mi mejor amiga ALLI from the airport and head to Montezuma where the beach awaits us!!!!!!!!!!! I am sure a mixture of things await us in Montezuma so in the words of Corey..."Maybe next year..."
And until my next post,
Coley
I am still here, though you would not know from my long blogging absence. I will be in Central America through 5 de mayo and then home at last. I am in the last leg of my journey around an amazing set of countries; torn between wanting to stay longer and readiness to return home to "normal" life and a schedule. I know I am lucky to have/make the opportunities to travel to other countries but there is something about home that is so comforting. I tend to be an antsy person, two years of anything and its time to change it up. So I am relieved that I am beginning to value home more than in the past. Rather than constantly wanting to be on the move, I also want to spend time at home with my family and friends. Long periods of travel away from home are great ways to put life into perspective, reflect on what you want in the future, and really appreciate aspects of home. A few thoughts of aspects of home that I miss among others:
1. Weekly chats with my sister and family members
2. The ability to walk out of my house and know where to purchase anything I need
3. The weekly outings with my best friends
4. Our daily/weekly/monthly chats besties... just being able to pick up the phone and use it!
5. The hustle and bustle of DC (yes I miss it strangely)
6. Knowing where my next meal is coming from
I am also amazed at how adaptable I have become. Santa Clara felt like home (as expected) since I spent 9 weeks there, but in the past 2 weeks I have traveled between 5 cities and they each have felt home-like in their own ways. Here is a quick blurb from each:
Antigua, Guatemala was peaceful and beautiful. I spent a lot of time there walking around and drinking coffee from all the fabulous coffee shops in the mornings... leading to a few stomach aches and slight twitching but oh so worth it. By afternoon Kayla, Jerry and I would wander around amidst the thousands of people there for Semana Santa. I am so glad that I have been able to experience Semana Santa in Latin America. The faith and passion of the people here are strong and unlike anything I have ever experienced before. One minor bump in my Guatemala experience was on Palm Sunday. During the procession, someone in the crowd where we stood cut my purse and stole my camera. Sad but not the end of the world. I am a crazy picture lady (like you Bee, you would be proud) but I also upload them regularly so only 40 pics at most were lost. I sulked for a few minutes quietly, thought of how lucky I was to still have my passport and credit card, drank a glass of wine with Kayla and Jerry, compliments of Jerry. (It was noon-ish but hey 5:00 somewhere), and walked to a camera store where I bought another camera. Problem solved. The next day we went Panajachel and Lake Atitlan (must sees in Guate) where I took lots of pics and soaked in the beauty and water on the speed boat we took with two 14 year olds as navigators.
San Salvador again. This place never gets old. Among all the places we have visited, El Salvador feels most like home. I plan to return in the future. I do have friends there which makes it so much easier! Kayla, Jerry and I returned to Leonel's house for 1 night before we sent Jerry back to the US (no worries he is on his way back shortly!). Kayla and I then moved over to the girls' house as their entire family headed to Antigua for the end of Semana Santa. We ended are visit with them in true fashion...a papusa and hot chocolate dinner! I love that family! The rest of the week was spent working on our final deliverables for our practicum here and wandering around to find dinner. On Good Friday night we were at a papuseria when a procession came past us full of praying and singing with 3 ice-cream eating cops pulling the the rear. It was so cute!
Saturday morning we hopped a bus at 5am to Managua, Nicaragua. We spent 3 nights in Managua... 2 nights too many I think. The hostel we stayed in was great, but this was the first city that I was not as comfortable in, especially walking around. The men there made catcalls and kissy noises and a bolo (drunkard) walked between the 2 streets where the hostel houses were and grabbed me one day. "No Sir" All was fine and like I said I loved the hostel. It had a great vibe, people were friendly, we went swimming, and basically just hung out watching movies and listening to music. I did see the new Adam Sandler movie "Just go with It" which is really cute and "Love and other Drugs". Kayla and I continued on our workout kick and did Insanity in front of an audience of the workers who just did not want to join in! Overall, the chillness was great and needed I think. Lesson learned: pass through Managua...Granada is the place to be!
Granada, Nicaragua the place to be! I know I already said it but I love it there! The hostel where we stayed was AMAZING! It was owned by an Irish man who was funny and helpful. I love encountering the Irish in my travels! Again I went swimming in the pool which was in the center of the small structure with an open sky above... unreal! Pictures coming soon! Kayla and I went to the Laguna del Apoyo outside of the city and swam in the Laguna! It was so beautiful!!! Our one day in Granada was well spent, understated, and perfect. Oh I should mention that I thought we would not make it to San Jose today for a minute! We went to buy bus tickets when we first arrived in Granada but the office was closed, SO we had lunch which consisted of PAPUSAS!!! Papusas are unheard of in Nica so we were happy! After lunch we trekked around the city to the 4 major bus stations trying to find room on the bus today. Luckily, at our last stop we were told 2 people cancelled on the 6am bus so we HAD TICKETS!!!
This all leads to now. We are at our homey hostel in San Jose using the wi-fi and passing the time. Getting to San Jose today was so important because tomorrow we must retrieve Jerry (the aforementioned and present mejor amigo de Kayla) and mi mejor amiga ALLI from the airport and head to Montezuma where the beach awaits us!!!!!!!!!!! I am sure a mixture of things await us in Montezuma so in the words of Corey..."Maybe next year..."
And until my next post,
Coley
Friday, April 15, 2011
Adios Pues, Santa Clara
More than 8 weeks have passed since I landed in San Salvador and trekked out to Santa Clara, a small village 2 hours east of the capital to live on a farm in the middle of rural El Salvador with more nature than I ever expected. I really don’t think any of us (fellows) or even DGH (department) had any idea exactly where we would be living and working when we arrived. Now I am lying in my beautiful bed, covered in my net for the last night here and I am sad. If you would have asked me night 1 when I discovered bats and my huge fear of them, or even during week 2 when the centipede bit, I would have never expected this time to move as quickly as it has nor would I have expected to feel this sad to be leaving. My soon to be 9 weeks in El Salvador has been so much more than I ever expected. Never before have I lived in a developing country, nor have I ever lived in one country for more than 1 week at a time. I anticipate having many future experiences such as this, but for the first I must say El Salvador has been great!
Tonight as I was brushing my teeth on the front porch beside Chevo sleeping in his signature hammock, waiting for us to finally head to bed so he can as well, I looked up at the stars and smiled. Yes toothpaste fell out of my mouth, but I also thought of how much I will miss doing this, and seeing the volcanoes in the distance, or lying in the hammock in an attempt to rest from the heat after a morning of walking for hours with a full belly of Sibia’s wonderful cooking. On a clear night, the stars fill the open sky and on a partly hazy night like tonight, just enough cover the sky to remind me one of the reasons why I love this place. We ended the evening in one of the best possible ways, a futbol game with Ale, Alex, and Fredhy…just like our first weekend here. This time we were without Felicia but with Luis and Jerry and the game was the perfect last night on the farm! On Tuesday evening, in the middle of our tri-set exercises a huge storm rolled in. The power went out about 10 minutes into the several hours long storm. We finished exercising and lay in the hammocks staring up at the lightning and rain. It was a peaceful time. One of my favorite things to do is watch a storm roll in and listen to the thunder and watch lightning. After a while when I was too cold to sit anymore, I showered and got ready for bed in the dark; a feat that would have been terrifying weeks ago. Now it just seemed peaceful as well; in fact I think I may prefer the darkness (aside from the lack of a fan). The darkness and quiet were comforting and allowed for enough time to reflect on my last week here. We were without electricity yesterday as well and again I enjoyed it.
The beauty of the country will be missed, but mostly I will miss the people. While the technology here has increased with most homes having electricity, many people having cell phones, and about half with televisions, keeping in touch with new friends will be a challenge. Sadly leaving here and saying goodbye has been hard because I can’t really say “I’ll see you soon” or even “next time”. Would I like to come back to El Salvador someday? Absolutely yes, but if and when I don’t know. I hope that through this blog I have described some of the most important people to me and that you feel as if you know them somehow. Today we went to a meeting and then with Doris to Usulutan to print photos for her and buy a few things for our friends. We printed pictures for all 3 promotoras, bought some knick knacks, a necklace for Sibia, silly bands for Hember, a new (non- Conan attacked) futbol for Alex and the boys, books for Max, and a Georgia Bulldogs hat for David. Just in case anyone missed it, YES I said a UGA hat!!! They had one in the market for $3!!!! Then in the afternoon we went to the Alcaldia (mayor’s office) to say goodbye there. Both the Sindico, Nelson with whom we shared an office, and the mayor were gracious and sad to see us leave. We said goodbye to Adalberto, our funny coffee bringing, Harry Potter impersonating, Febreez spraying friend among others in the office who have grown to like us. Because these people have meant so much to me and have made my time in Santa Clara so rewarding I want to mention a few things I will miss.
1. Doris telling us the jokes of the day and making jokes about David’s children and girlfriend and the laugh she has afterwards!
2. David finding and eating 4 mangos each morning and greeting us by saying “Como estamos” and “Quiere probar bombi?”
3. Sibia laughing at me when I talk about dancing and the moments she begins to say more than a few words and we feel like old friends. And her cooking too of course!
4. Hember’s ninja moves, his poses while wearing my stunnas, he and Sibia’s “claro que si” “claro que no” banter, and the smear of dirt he somehow always manages to get on his face while playing and laughing with us
5. Chevo’s smile anytime I say hello and ask him how he is
6. Ale’s smile and mischievous look, his super fast speech that I now understand, and the games we play with him and his posse of followers
7. Alex’s weekend visits to the farm when we tell jokes (I listen), play games, and do homework. He’s one of the coolest kids ever…and he loved the new futbol!
8. Nelson welcoming us every day by saying “mucho gusto”, his sporadic use of an English word or 2, and his genuine interest in our work and lives away from El Salvador. His smile and kindness have left a lasting impression.
9. Adalberto and his Harry Potter glasses which just recently made an appearance, his awesome coffee, and the visits he paid us in the office with nothing really to talk about, but just to chat
10. The neighborhood girls- driving down the road to the Alcaldia and having all the little girls from the classes anxious to say hello, and the classes with them
11. Carolina’s visits for English classes where she is so excited to see us that she keeps talking in Spanish incessantly and randomly complimenting us. Also her visit tonight to say goodbye. She is sweet girl and means well.
12. Max’s quiet demeanor that seems to be misunderstood. I will miss our insightful conversations about politics and the news and his genuine friendliness that he welcomes us with every night. He has been a wonderful housemate and I think I will miss him most due to his unspoken kindness. Not to forget that he saved the day with the centipede!
Now that I have brought myself to happy and sad tears, I would like to finish my time here in Santa Clara on a happy note. Tomorrow for breakfast I will enjoy my coffee, over eat at lunch, watch happily as our friends open their presents, and thank everyone for all they have done for us. I hope I have left a lasting impression on them at least a fraction of the degree that they have left on me.
Voy a extrañarla Santa Clara. Un millón de gracias.
Coley
Heading to Guatemala in the AM!!!!
Thursday, April 14, 2011
Lots of Learning and Birthday Shenanigans
So it is still my birthday as I write this in El Salvador! And I must say that I have had a great day! Thank you to all of my friends here in ES for making it so special. The day began with “Happy Birthdays” from my professor and Kayla who was super excited! My prof and I left early for a trip into San Rafael Oriente to attend the morning portion of a training session for teens at the Instituto (or high school) for a literacy project that they have here. Our cab driver friend here in town also wished me happy birthday on the way! The Ministry of Education has provided funding to areas around the country to promote literacy among the adult population. Teens and young adults are trained as instructors and serve as leaders in the community and teachers to the older population. This is a really great project and is one of the possible future collaborations for DGH and future fellows! I sat in the front of a classroom at the Institute. A lady by the name of Flor is in charge of the program and introduced me and also told the teens not to bother me when she left the room. One of the guys beside me and I chatted during our down time and I watched, amusingly, as he nodded and winked at multiple girls as they walked by our classroom causing them to blush or flip their hair. Oh high school…I swear it never changes. During one of the breaks my friend Carolina (who we practice English with on weekends) came over to say hello. She was telling another girl bout Kayla and I and mentioned that I was 25. So I told her I was 26 today and this turned into multiple hugs by people and Flor calling me up in front of the class to sing to me. It was so sweet, though the expressions on the kids’ faces were priceless with their “who is this girl and why are we singing to her looks.” A few hours into the training Prof and I had to leave to go to a meeting in San Miguel. There we spoke with an OB-GYN and received a tour of the maternity ward and labor and delivery. It was so interesting. Though among the 5000 births in the hospital in 2010, 100 were from girls 10-14 years in age!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WOW and that number has increased from 23 in 2007. El Salvador has a high teenage pregnancy rate overall.
(So now its Wednesday) The meeting was great and I was enjoying my day so far but something about being in a foreign country on your birthday when your phone is not working and you do not have internet access to see the birthday love in electronic form was making me kind of sad. I had not spoken with anyone in my family in weeks because of the phone issue and I really wanted to. I decided to try my phone in San Miguel and it worked!!!! I got to talk to my Dad for 15 minutes or so and it made me so happy!!! It was a reconnection to home! From there the day got even better. So Kayla went to pick up Jerry as I said and they came back around 4:30 bearing gifts!!! I had asked Jerry to bring me peanut butter which he did and wrapped in bday paper and they also bought 4 chocolate bars! YUM They were in all flavors and are king size! I kept trying to share them with everyone because here I have little self-control as I eat nothing bad ever! So we will see how long they last! And then Doris and David came over with a beautiful cake they bought in El Transito! It was so sweet. I almost ruined the surprise of the cake by peeking my head around the corner but I saw nothing! We all sat around the table eating cake, chocolate, and mangos and drinking wine. Sibia, Hember, Fredhy, Chevo, and Antonio also enjoyed the cake and wished me well! Kayla bought me my own baby bottle which was so yummy! This year like last, my birthday left me feeling so happy and loved.
And then I went to San Salvador… where I checked my email and found some of the nicest emails and facebook posts and my birthday celebration got even better! Did I mention that Friday was Day 2 of my 4 day celebration???? You know how I do it! Friday night we went out with the girls to my favorite Taqueria ever and had tacos. Then we went to the disco and had some drinks and danced for a while which was awesome!!! Day 3 celebration began early with a venti Starbucks coffee and a 3 way phone call with my Dad, Maria, & T and Bee!!!! It was lovely! It continued with a shopping trip, a dinner out with the girls, VIP section at a free bar, and then dancing!! We ran into the guys from our last visit to San Salv at the disco and they mentioned to Marce how we never stop dancing. Haha um yep it’s what we do; once at the dicso its dance time! Day 4 was full of a day at the beach!!!! I mean can you say perfect birthday? Karla and Marce and 3 of their friends took us to Playa Tunco where I tried a Seafood Coctel at lunch with this awesome coconut smoothie. Then we had play time at the beach (Playa Teatro I think) until we headed back to take Jerry for some Sunday night papusas at my fave Papuseria Lily! I had hot chocolate and papusas= amazing! One couple we were hanging out with wanted to hang out with us more whenever we returned to the city. Yay more friends! They we so funny and cute together! They had awesome Central American travel tips as well! Basically it was the perfect weekend. As we were leaving on Monday, I was again reminded of the generosity of the people we know here. Leonel allows us to stay at his home in San Salvador when we visit, but his cousin (the girls’ dad) is watching his home. So Jorge comes to collect the key from us and offers to take us to a cab closer to the bus station. On the way, we tell him we want to go to Guatemala this weekend (since our Panama trip did not work out…sad) and he takes us to the Sheraton to buy tickets on a reputable bus line. As we are leaving he tells us amidst our million thanks that we are like his family and that we have a family here in San Salv and that they will miss us so much when we are gone. I feel so lucky to have met such warm and welcoming people and feel the same way about them. I truly hope that I can repay this generosity to them or their friends when they come to DC in the future!
Now I know all I have talked about are my 4 days of fun but I must say that these last few weeks here have been full of hard work and long days! We have had meetings with principles, directors, doctors, nurses, and health promoters in an attempt to find a potential program for the future. We have also finished visiting the community here. Kayla, Jerry, and I returned to the farm on Monday afternoon for the last time and I began to get sad. I have really bonded with so many of the people here and will miss them all so much. I realize that in addition to the people here I will miss the farm and the dogs and all the loud noises that have become a part of my home in this foreign land. I am glad that we have been so busy with work and interviews that I have not had much time to think about saying goodbye.
We have been without electricity at the farm for 2 days so I will write more later on the end of this experience. For now I will give the gifts we purchased to the people we have become friends with and begin packing my 1 backpack for the adventures ahead!
Thank you again to all of you who made my birthday wonderful!!! Bee and Papa, the care package was the BEST!!! Thank you so much:)
Love to all,
Coley
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Go Dawgs!!!
Another Saturday on the farm complete with a morning trip to Usulutan to buy some needed bug spray and supplies for my birthday celebration!!! Since I do not eat any wheat or gluten products a birthday dessert was tough so we went with wine! We bought wine and candles and I bought some chocolate in bar form. I hope it lasts until my birthday but I doubt it so wine and candles it will be (though not together!). As many of you know I have a countdown annually that begins on March 7th until the big day! I also tend to plan multiple celebrations and this year is no different even here in El Salvador! On the way home from Usulután we entered Santa Elena where the paved road ends and the dirt road begins. As we were turning onto the dirt road a man passed us on a motorbike wearing a gray t-shirt with a red, black, and white GEORGIA G on the front!!!! It made my good day even better!!! It has also inspired an all day Corey Smith jam session! Oh Athens I miss you!
This is the first day in a while that I woke up with a positive outlook. Over the past week I had reached a point in my time here where I was feeling frustrated about several things and really having a hard time overcoming it. Thanks to some inspiring words from Meagan and Alli and a super long sleep last night I think I accomplished my recent goal of feeling better and regaining my positive outlook on life. Check that off the list! I am excited because change is coming over the next and final 3 weeks here in El Salvador. 5 days from now I will be turning 26! (By the time I post this it will be 3 days!!!) A professor from school is coming into ES tomorrow for a week. I am excited to see what types of future projects we can develop during her visit for future fellows. We need a more developed project for the future and a funding mechanism at some point. I think this could happen now that we have a clearer picture of the community but we shall see what happens! Also on my birthday Kayla’s best friend Jerry Boone is coming to visit for a while! I am excited that someone else is coming to see where we live! It is so hard to explain the farm to anyone and pictures don’t really do it justice. It will be interesting having so many people here in such a small space! But like I said I welcome the change.
I have begun to look forward to my post-practicum adventures and my fun-filled, jam packed summer of weddings and parties and work and school and figuring out what happens next in life. The last thing not so much, but it’s time to decide… AGAIN. Oh Maria I feel a transition coming on which will probably lead to a post-25 quarter life crisis. I know Mama Ruth says I can’t go to school forever, BUT I actually could for a while longer. Seriously though I am not sure what is coming next, but it will come and be just as it’s supposed to be. Until then, I have Sunday playdates with the kids in Santa Clara to look forward to. Last Sunday after our class, we played “policia y ladrones” or cops and robbers with the kids and they and I had so much fun! Any time we saw a child this week they asked if they would see us Sunday to play again. I love that they are so excited to play with us! It makes me happy to play with them! Hember (previously known as Ember) is our daily friend who never ceases to entertain me with his karate moves, swinging in the hammock, putting on my stunna shades and strutting his stuff, or the utter joy he gets from playing on Kayla’s IPod and peering over our shoulders as we work on our computers. Ale, our other regular friend, has not been around this week but Alex was here on Monday! He usually only comes to hang out on weekends when Leonel is here. Since Leonel was leaving for a month and a half, Alex came over for the night. Leonel, Alex, Kayla and I spent the evening chatting on the porch. I also was helping Leonel with a powerpoint presentation he is compiling to show church communities in the US more about El Salvador. I like that he asked Kayla and I for help! It’s the least I could do for all that he has done for us! I have to admit I am sad that he is gone, but I do plan to keep in contact with him via email and possibly may even try to meet up with him in DC when we are both there at the same time. Wednesday morning we wished him safe travels and thanked him for everything as we headed out to meet the promotoras. This week we finished visiting all the homes with the promotoras. Yay!!
2 DAYS now!!! I am picking up from where I left off since I did not have internet access until today. My Sunday was complete with an English lesson or 2, play time with the kids, and the arrival of my professor. It’s always a fun feeling when someone comes to visit you at your home or a place you know in a deeper way than them. I loved showing her around and feeling like this is my home! So Sunday night/Monday morning I am laying in my bed sleeping. I wake up around 2:15 to roll over onto my stomach. The next thing I know I feel a light mist fall on my legs. I was sooo freaked out. For a second I thought it may have been my imagination or a slight dream state, but no I am sure it was not. The next thought was, “Shit do bats pee like humans. I would think it would be more like birds.” Yes I had a mini convo with myself in my head! See the bats were super loud during the night and have been lately. They also have been flying in pairs so I think they are twitterpated (Kayla taught me this word!) and mating…um eww. I don’t know what the mist was but it was gross and we have not had rain in so long. I am getting such a great story from this experience! Our week is full of activities and meetings and I am so happy! I love the busyness of it all. I also feel like the discussion we had with our professor today helped me see some things I have been missing and helps me focus on some new aspects of the project during the remainder of my time here!
I am heading to San Salvador on Friday after my birthday celebration on Thursday night on the farm to celebrate again with the girls on Saturday at the BEACH!!!!! Woots:) DC see you in 1 month! SF see you in 23 days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
xoxo
Coley
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)