Wednesday evening, Mr. Pai took Nat and I in his tuk tuk to The Angkor Temples with thousands of others to watch the sunset over Phnom Bakheng. The path to sunset starts at a dusty clay set of steps and proceeds with a short hike up a mountain to the gorgeous temple. Phnom Bakheng was built during the late 9th- early 10th century C.E. And was the first major temple built in the area ( thanks SR visitors guide). At the base of the temple, a steep wooden staircase has been erected to allow visitors to climb to the top to see the sunset over a mountain. The temple has intricate carvings on all surfaces and carvings of Buddha and Aspara dancers throughout. The evening was cloudy, but the sun peaked through the clouds twice, just in time to watch it set. It was stunning! This was only a precursor of what was to come!
Upon our return to town, we scoped out the Night Market. Thankfully, I exercised some self-control and saved my wallet some $$$! We ate curry at a restaurant on Pub Street (the place to be for all things drinking and eating) and ended up in bed at 9:30 in preparation for our day at the temples!
Alarm on Thursday, 4:30 am to meet Mr. Pai by 5:10 in front of the hotel. By 5:30 we were in front of Angkor Wat in the pitch black beginning our trek, flashlight in hand, walking toward it. It's hard to describe the feeling of watching the sun slowly rise over this awe inspiring temple. The day was cloudy overall, but the sky slowly lightened over the next hour revealing the magnificent structure in front of us. Thousands of visitors were standing with us by the lake on the left side of the temple inside of its gate. Watching the sunrise here was a once in a lifetime experience. Angkor means "capital city" or "holy city". Angkor Wat was built during the 12th century and serves as the centerpiece to visitors of the temples. We spent the next couple of hours exploring Angkor Wat. We commented on how we have never had such access to explore and walk around and climb on a structure like we were given at the Angkor temples. I ended my morning at Angkor Wat lying on the grass in front of it, taking in the view and the moment.
After breakfast, we headed to Angkor Thom, the ancient city, who's gate is lined with Buddhas and entryway is a stone arch with a face emerging from the top on both sides. Bayon was next and is impressive! Stone faces are present all over the temple, on its 37 standing towers. Bayon was one of my favorites. Our next 1-2 hours were accidental as we got lost along the way, but we ended up seeing Baphoun, the Royal Palace area, and Phimeanakas. Baphoun, recently restored, is the large temple mountain. Full disclosure, I was terrified walking up and down the steepest steps I've ever experienced that lead you to the top of Baphoun. The view from the top was worth the hike, but the nausea on the way down was rough! When we got back on the path, we explored the Terrace of Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King. The Figures in the store were beautiful!
For lunch, we enjoyed more Khmer food and the headed to Ta Prohm, where massive fig and silk-cotton trees grow out of the temple. The visual is gorgeous and impressive...also one of my favorites! Along the way, Mr. Pai stopped at the smaller temples of Thommanom, Chau Say Thevoda, and Banteay Kdei. The day was long and tiring, but one of the most beautiful I have ever experienced. These temples are impressive! I am grateful to have spent a day exploring them.
We ended this wonderful day with a tuk tuk drive around the local Siem Reap carnival area followed by a late afternoon rest by the pool. It took a few days for the magnitude of the temple day to sink in!
Tuesday, February 24, 2015
Thursday, February 19, 2015
Hello Lady
Another day, another 6am wake up! We have now accomplished many things before 9 am since arriving in Cambodia. The hotel breakfast was nice. I am channeling my inner Gaston as I have eaten 2357754 eggs since arriving! It's a great thing that I like eggs. We then headed out to explore the Old Market which is full of food and nic-nacs. Over the course of the day, I spent way too much money but I hope it is helpful to the people I purchased from. As I walked past any booth and even glimpsed at the merchandise out of the corner of my eye, a very polite, "hello lady" could be heard often accompanied by a comment on how they had a good deal for me or a deal for the new year. And let me just say, I am not a bargainer. Really I would just call myself a sucker for any price offered! Perks to them!
Up next, a Khmer cooking class. A guide from a local restaurant took us into the Old Market and pointed out local fruits and veggies. We purchased a few things for the class and went back to work. In the class we each prepared an appetizer and entree of our choosing. The amazing part was that each person chose their own and we did not all have to cook the same thing. The options were endless and let's be honest, my indecisiveness was not a strength in this endeavor! I opted for a mango salad and chicken loc lac. Over the next 2 hours Nat and I befriended a retired Canadian couple, a French college student, and 2 twenty something Chinese women on holiday celebrating the Chinese New Year! They were all really fun and interesting people. We also chopped and stirred and pan fried the food. The dishes were amazing. Compliments to the chef;)For dessert we made a collective dish of mango sticky rice. Yum!
Food coma time! This led is to a stop by the pool to relax before heading to the breathtaking temples to watch the sunset. More on the Temples next...
Up next, a Khmer cooking class. A guide from a local restaurant took us into the Old Market and pointed out local fruits and veggies. We purchased a few things for the class and went back to work. In the class we each prepared an appetizer and entree of our choosing. The amazing part was that each person chose their own and we did not all have to cook the same thing. The options were endless and let's be honest, my indecisiveness was not a strength in this endeavor! I opted for a mango salad and chicken loc lac. Over the next 2 hours Nat and I befriended a retired Canadian couple, a French college student, and 2 twenty something Chinese women on holiday celebrating the Chinese New Year! They were all really fun and interesting people. We also chopped and stirred and pan fried the food. The dishes were amazing. Compliments to the chef;)For dessert we made a collective dish of mango sticky rice. Yum!
Food coma time! This led is to a stop by the pool to relax before heading to the breathtaking temples to watch the sunset. More on the Temples next...
The Road to Siem Reap
My first Tuesday started like the others have so for, at 6am (I'm sensing a pattern here...). Nat and I trekked out to grab breakfast and coffee before our 8 hour bus to Siem Reap. The trip should take about 6 hours, but you know, plan for 8. We scoped out a breakfast spot the night before that opened at 6am and then remained closed without a light on or movement at 6:20. Plan B- find any open place, grab and go (unlikely in PP). Mission accomplished with no time to spare! Our bus was scheduled to leave at 7:45am and we pulled out around 8:15. We opted for the deluxe option (think megabus with water, a snack, and a TV at the front playing Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles for all to hear). It was quite nice! The road to Siem Reap is exciting and full of buses, cars, tuk tuks, motorbikes, and bicycles. The reason the trip takes a while is that the road is half paved and half dirt. Adventures on a bumpy road!
Upon our arrival, we found the hotel lovely. It's an open air space with rooms scattered around and 2 gorgeous pools that we immediately took advantage of! (I can't seem to get the photos uploaded via phone... Coming soon) The feel of Siem Reap is very different than PP. It's much quieter and feels more relaxed in many ways. For dinner we attended an Aspara Dance show while chowing down on a huge buffet dinner with a ton of traditional Khmer dishes. Amazing food and show. The dancing is beautiful!
I think I'm going to love this town!
xo,
Cole
Upon our arrival, we found the hotel lovely. It's an open air space with rooms scattered around and 2 gorgeous pools that we immediately took advantage of! (I can't seem to get the photos uploaded via phone... Coming soon) The feel of Siem Reap is very different than PP. It's much quieter and feels more relaxed in many ways. For dinner we attended an Aspara Dance show while chowing down on a huge buffet dinner with a ton of traditional Khmer dishes. Amazing food and show. The dancing is beautiful!
I think I'm going to love this town!
xo,
Cole
Wednesday, February 18, 2015
Perspective
Day 2 in PP started at 6am due to lack of sleep. I was so tired but my mind would not stop which means little to no sleep. Nat even woke up super early, so we were off in search of breakfast and water. Sadly, Amanda had to work and didn't join us on our adventure. We hired a really nice tuk tuk driver who never stopped smiling for the day. First stop, Russian market. To get there, our tuk tuk crossed the median and drove into oncoming traffic to make a left turn... It was terrifyingly thrilling. If you have ever been to a market in a developing country, then you know what it was like. Hundreds of booths selling clothing, trinkets, shoes, electronics, produce, and meat. The eels were wiggling in the trays and the pig head was staring right at us (maybe even winking;)).
Stop 2 was Toul Sleng Genocide Museum where over 12,000 Cambodians were forced into prison, interrogated, and killed over 4 years during the Khmer Rouge. The prison was formerly a school that was overtaken by Pol Pot and his men as they kicked everyone out of the city. It's really hard to believe that the prison was kept secret for so long until Independence Day in January 1979. It was a very sad and moving place to be. From there we had a quick lunch that consisted of 2 eggs with 3 pieces of coconut flavored toast even though Nat ordered something entirely different! From there our driver took us out to the Killing Fields. The tour is self guided with a head set that walks you along and provides you with history and perspectives from Khmer people impacted by the war. I don't think there is a single family in the country who was not impacted by the terror inflicted by the Khmer rouge. I really liked that each visitor was able to walk through the experience on his or her own in silence.. It was one of the saddest things I've ever seen. Tens of thousands of people were carted out to the fields and brutally murdered; men, women, and children. Remanents of bone and clothing are still found today during the rainy season when the water washes layers of dirt away. The site now honors the lives of all of the people killed in a very powerful and moving way. The people of Cambodia are a very resilient group. What happened should never be forgotten and should never happen again anywhere in the world.
As we headed back to the city, we spent most of our ride quietly reflecting on the experience; occasionally asking questions about things we saw or heard. I also thought about the living conditions of the people we passed along the way out to the fields. Houses that doubled as store fronts made of medal, often on wooden stilts with very little inside. Poverty is very high throughout the country and I really saw that as we drove through town. A day like today really puts life into perspective. It makes me thankful for what I have and for the ability to help others.
I really gained perspective on how fortunate I am when we returned to Amanda's apartment for a short rest and then went for a massage before dinner. For dinner I tried the Khmer specialty of Beff Loc Lac which was delicious.
As I fell asleep, I took a minute to reflect on the day, be thankful for what I have, and acknowledge my new found perspective on life thanks to Cambodia.
Stop 2 was Toul Sleng Genocide Museum where over 12,000 Cambodians were forced into prison, interrogated, and killed over 4 years during the Khmer Rouge. The prison was formerly a school that was overtaken by Pol Pot and his men as they kicked everyone out of the city. It's really hard to believe that the prison was kept secret for so long until Independence Day in January 1979. It was a very sad and moving place to be. From there we had a quick lunch that consisted of 2 eggs with 3 pieces of coconut flavored toast even though Nat ordered something entirely different! From there our driver took us out to the Killing Fields. The tour is self guided with a head set that walks you along and provides you with history and perspectives from Khmer people impacted by the war. I don't think there is a single family in the country who was not impacted by the terror inflicted by the Khmer rouge. I really liked that each visitor was able to walk through the experience on his or her own in silence.. It was one of the saddest things I've ever seen. Tens of thousands of people were carted out to the fields and brutally murdered; men, women, and children. Remanents of bone and clothing are still found today during the rainy season when the water washes layers of dirt away. The site now honors the lives of all of the people killed in a very powerful and moving way. The people of Cambodia are a very resilient group. What happened should never be forgotten and should never happen again anywhere in the world.
As we headed back to the city, we spent most of our ride quietly reflecting on the experience; occasionally asking questions about things we saw or heard. I also thought about the living conditions of the people we passed along the way out to the fields. Houses that doubled as store fronts made of medal, often on wooden stilts with very little inside. Poverty is very high throughout the country and I really saw that as we drove through town. A day like today really puts life into perspective. It makes me thankful for what I have and for the ability to help others.
I really gained perspective on how fortunate I am when we returned to Amanda's apartment for a short rest and then went for a massage before dinner. For dinner I tried the Khmer specialty of Beff Loc Lac which was delicious.
As I fell asleep, I took a minute to reflect on the day, be thankful for what I have, and acknowledge my new found perspective on life thanks to Cambodia.
Sunday, February 15, 2015
The King is a Bachelor
I arrived late last night and Mands and Nat picked me up at the airpor in a tuk tuk, our primary mode of transportation in Phnom Penh! I was SOOO tired. Today our adventure began with a stop at the Java Cafe, an expat hangout with great food... I had a Greek omelette with home fries. Felt like home! No worries we ate Cambodian food for dinner. Fish Amok is a delicious follow up to a sunset cruise on the Mekong river. Prior to the cruise we stopped the independence monument, took Khmer wedding photos (an experience to never forget), and took a tour of the Royal Palace and Siver Pagoda in newly purchaed fisherman pants. The weather is warm, humid, and refreshing after leaving DC at 19 degrees. Apparently it's cold here according to the locals. I think I need to move to a climate like this!
Things I learned today;
1. When in a developing country, you need to let go of some of your germaphobia (especially when a Cambodian woman is frantically trying to make you beautiful for your fake wedding photos).
2. The fake eyelashes must stay at the photo shoot.
3. The Cambodian King is a bachelor because he was a ballet dancer in Paris for 20 years before becoming King.
4. Crossing the street in PP is crazy!
5. Traffic laws don't really seem to exist. Every tuk tuk ride is an adventure!
Looking forward to Day 2.
xoxo,
Cole
Things I learned today;
1. When in a developing country, you need to let go of some of your germaphobia (especially when a Cambodian woman is frantically trying to make you beautiful for your fake wedding photos).
2. The fake eyelashes must stay at the photo shoot.
3. The Cambodian King is a bachelor because he was a ballet dancer in Paris for 20 years before becoming King.
4. Crossing the street in PP is crazy!
5. Traffic laws don't really seem to exist. Every tuk tuk ride is an adventure!
Looking forward to Day 2.
xoxo,
Cole
Wednesday, February 11, 2015
SE Asia, here I come!
It's time for another adventure! I'm hoping to post a few times over the next couple of weeks as I explore Cambodia and Vietnam with some lovely friends. I am so excited! I hope you join me along the way. Any tips are welcome :)
xo,
Cole
xo,
Cole
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Maybe Next Year...
Saying goodbye was hard to do. My official last day on the farm was full of activity which made leaving somewhat easier. Sibia and the boys helped us pack and bid us a sweet farewell. We did after all need to get moving since we had a bus to catch to Guatemala the next morning.
I am still here, though you would not know from my long blogging absence. I will be in Central America through 5 de mayo and then home at last. I am in the last leg of my journey around an amazing set of countries; torn between wanting to stay longer and readiness to return home to "normal" life and a schedule. I know I am lucky to have/make the opportunities to travel to other countries but there is something about home that is so comforting. I tend to be an antsy person, two years of anything and its time to change it up. So I am relieved that I am beginning to value home more than in the past. Rather than constantly wanting to be on the move, I also want to spend time at home with my family and friends. Long periods of travel away from home are great ways to put life into perspective, reflect on what you want in the future, and really appreciate aspects of home. A few thoughts of aspects of home that I miss among others:
1. Weekly chats with my sister and family members
2. The ability to walk out of my house and know where to purchase anything I need
3. The weekly outings with my best friends
4. Our daily/weekly/monthly chats besties... just being able to pick up the phone and use it!
5. The hustle and bustle of DC (yes I miss it strangely)
6. Knowing where my next meal is coming from
I am also amazed at how adaptable I have become. Santa Clara felt like home (as expected) since I spent 9 weeks there, but in the past 2 weeks I have traveled between 5 cities and they each have felt home-like in their own ways. Here is a quick blurb from each:
Antigua, Guatemala was peaceful and beautiful. I spent a lot of time there walking around and drinking coffee from all the fabulous coffee shops in the mornings... leading to a few stomach aches and slight twitching but oh so worth it. By afternoon Kayla, Jerry and I would wander around amidst the thousands of people there for Semana Santa. I am so glad that I have been able to experience Semana Santa in Latin America. The faith and passion of the people here are strong and unlike anything I have ever experienced before. One minor bump in my Guatemala experience was on Palm Sunday. During the procession, someone in the crowd where we stood cut my purse and stole my camera. Sad but not the end of the world. I am a crazy picture lady (like you Bee, you would be proud) but I also upload them regularly so only 40 pics at most were lost. I sulked for a few minutes quietly, thought of how lucky I was to still have my passport and credit card, drank a glass of wine with Kayla and Jerry, compliments of Jerry. (It was noon-ish but hey 5:00 somewhere), and walked to a camera store where I bought another camera. Problem solved. The next day we went Panajachel and Lake Atitlan (must sees in Guate) where I took lots of pics and soaked in the beauty and water on the speed boat we took with two 14 year olds as navigators.
San Salvador again. This place never gets old. Among all the places we have visited, El Salvador feels most like home. I plan to return in the future. I do have friends there which makes it so much easier! Kayla, Jerry and I returned to Leonel's house for 1 night before we sent Jerry back to the US (no worries he is on his way back shortly!). Kayla and I then moved over to the girls' house as their entire family headed to Antigua for the end of Semana Santa. We ended are visit with them in true fashion...a papusa and hot chocolate dinner! I love that family! The rest of the week was spent working on our final deliverables for our practicum here and wandering around to find dinner. On Good Friday night we were at a papuseria when a procession came past us full of praying and singing with 3 ice-cream eating cops pulling the the rear. It was so cute!
Saturday morning we hopped a bus at 5am to Managua, Nicaragua. We spent 3 nights in Managua... 2 nights too many I think. The hostel we stayed in was great, but this was the first city that I was not as comfortable in, especially walking around. The men there made catcalls and kissy noises and a bolo (drunkard) walked between the 2 streets where the hostel houses were and grabbed me one day. "No Sir" All was fine and like I said I loved the hostel. It had a great vibe, people were friendly, we went swimming, and basically just hung out watching movies and listening to music. I did see the new Adam Sandler movie "Just go with It" which is really cute and "Love and other Drugs". Kayla and I continued on our workout kick and did Insanity in front of an audience of the workers who just did not want to join in! Overall, the chillness was great and needed I think. Lesson learned: pass through Managua...Granada is the place to be!
Granada, Nicaragua the place to be! I know I already said it but I love it there! The hostel where we stayed was AMAZING! It was owned by an Irish man who was funny and helpful. I love encountering the Irish in my travels! Again I went swimming in the pool which was in the center of the small structure with an open sky above... unreal! Pictures coming soon! Kayla and I went to the Laguna del Apoyo outside of the city and swam in the Laguna! It was so beautiful!!! Our one day in Granada was well spent, understated, and perfect. Oh I should mention that I thought we would not make it to San Jose today for a minute! We went to buy bus tickets when we first arrived in Granada but the office was closed, SO we had lunch which consisted of PAPUSAS!!! Papusas are unheard of in Nica so we were happy! After lunch we trekked around the city to the 4 major bus stations trying to find room on the bus today. Luckily, at our last stop we were told 2 people cancelled on the 6am bus so we HAD TICKETS!!!
This all leads to now. We are at our homey hostel in San Jose using the wi-fi and passing the time. Getting to San Jose today was so important because tomorrow we must retrieve Jerry (the aforementioned and present mejor amigo de Kayla) and mi mejor amiga ALLI from the airport and head to Montezuma where the beach awaits us!!!!!!!!!!! I am sure a mixture of things await us in Montezuma so in the words of Corey..."Maybe next year..."
And until my next post,
Coley
I am still here, though you would not know from my long blogging absence. I will be in Central America through 5 de mayo and then home at last. I am in the last leg of my journey around an amazing set of countries; torn between wanting to stay longer and readiness to return home to "normal" life and a schedule. I know I am lucky to have/make the opportunities to travel to other countries but there is something about home that is so comforting. I tend to be an antsy person, two years of anything and its time to change it up. So I am relieved that I am beginning to value home more than in the past. Rather than constantly wanting to be on the move, I also want to spend time at home with my family and friends. Long periods of travel away from home are great ways to put life into perspective, reflect on what you want in the future, and really appreciate aspects of home. A few thoughts of aspects of home that I miss among others:
1. Weekly chats with my sister and family members
2. The ability to walk out of my house and know where to purchase anything I need
3. The weekly outings with my best friends
4. Our daily/weekly/monthly chats besties... just being able to pick up the phone and use it!
5. The hustle and bustle of DC (yes I miss it strangely)
6. Knowing where my next meal is coming from
I am also amazed at how adaptable I have become. Santa Clara felt like home (as expected) since I spent 9 weeks there, but in the past 2 weeks I have traveled between 5 cities and they each have felt home-like in their own ways. Here is a quick blurb from each:
Antigua, Guatemala was peaceful and beautiful. I spent a lot of time there walking around and drinking coffee from all the fabulous coffee shops in the mornings... leading to a few stomach aches and slight twitching but oh so worth it. By afternoon Kayla, Jerry and I would wander around amidst the thousands of people there for Semana Santa. I am so glad that I have been able to experience Semana Santa in Latin America. The faith and passion of the people here are strong and unlike anything I have ever experienced before. One minor bump in my Guatemala experience was on Palm Sunday. During the procession, someone in the crowd where we stood cut my purse and stole my camera. Sad but not the end of the world. I am a crazy picture lady (like you Bee, you would be proud) but I also upload them regularly so only 40 pics at most were lost. I sulked for a few minutes quietly, thought of how lucky I was to still have my passport and credit card, drank a glass of wine with Kayla and Jerry, compliments of Jerry. (It was noon-ish but hey 5:00 somewhere), and walked to a camera store where I bought another camera. Problem solved. The next day we went Panajachel and Lake Atitlan (must sees in Guate) where I took lots of pics and soaked in the beauty and water on the speed boat we took with two 14 year olds as navigators.
San Salvador again. This place never gets old. Among all the places we have visited, El Salvador feels most like home. I plan to return in the future. I do have friends there which makes it so much easier! Kayla, Jerry and I returned to Leonel's house for 1 night before we sent Jerry back to the US (no worries he is on his way back shortly!). Kayla and I then moved over to the girls' house as their entire family headed to Antigua for the end of Semana Santa. We ended are visit with them in true fashion...a papusa and hot chocolate dinner! I love that family! The rest of the week was spent working on our final deliverables for our practicum here and wandering around to find dinner. On Good Friday night we were at a papuseria when a procession came past us full of praying and singing with 3 ice-cream eating cops pulling the the rear. It was so cute!
Saturday morning we hopped a bus at 5am to Managua, Nicaragua. We spent 3 nights in Managua... 2 nights too many I think. The hostel we stayed in was great, but this was the first city that I was not as comfortable in, especially walking around. The men there made catcalls and kissy noises and a bolo (drunkard) walked between the 2 streets where the hostel houses were and grabbed me one day. "No Sir" All was fine and like I said I loved the hostel. It had a great vibe, people were friendly, we went swimming, and basically just hung out watching movies and listening to music. I did see the new Adam Sandler movie "Just go with It" which is really cute and "Love and other Drugs". Kayla and I continued on our workout kick and did Insanity in front of an audience of the workers who just did not want to join in! Overall, the chillness was great and needed I think. Lesson learned: pass through Managua...Granada is the place to be!
Granada, Nicaragua the place to be! I know I already said it but I love it there! The hostel where we stayed was AMAZING! It was owned by an Irish man who was funny and helpful. I love encountering the Irish in my travels! Again I went swimming in the pool which was in the center of the small structure with an open sky above... unreal! Pictures coming soon! Kayla and I went to the Laguna del Apoyo outside of the city and swam in the Laguna! It was so beautiful!!! Our one day in Granada was well spent, understated, and perfect. Oh I should mention that I thought we would not make it to San Jose today for a minute! We went to buy bus tickets when we first arrived in Granada but the office was closed, SO we had lunch which consisted of PAPUSAS!!! Papusas are unheard of in Nica so we were happy! After lunch we trekked around the city to the 4 major bus stations trying to find room on the bus today. Luckily, at our last stop we were told 2 people cancelled on the 6am bus so we HAD TICKETS!!!
This all leads to now. We are at our homey hostel in San Jose using the wi-fi and passing the time. Getting to San Jose today was so important because tomorrow we must retrieve Jerry (the aforementioned and present mejor amigo de Kayla) and mi mejor amiga ALLI from the airport and head to Montezuma where the beach awaits us!!!!!!!!!!! I am sure a mixture of things await us in Montezuma so in the words of Corey..."Maybe next year..."
And until my next post,
Coley
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